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    Alain Raynaud (left) with French businessman and wine enthusiast Jacques Azoulay (a.k.a. NYC Real Housewife LuAnn de Lesseps's boy toy)

Winetology Wednesday with Jonny Cigar

Alternative Bordeaux: How The Right and Left Banks Are Getting Their Groove Back

A brief discussion with Bordeaux heavyweight, Alain Raynaud

There was a time when I would pick up a bottle of French wine and try to discern its quality by staring blankly at the label, then choosing based on price and artful script. Enter the experts: there’s a new collective of 149 Chateaux aimed at highlighting high quality Bordeaux wines at affordable prices—and like organic food and wine that is labeled as such, they come with seals of approval, visible on the bottles.

So, with an internet full of content about Bordeaux, I hope for your alternative dining pleasures you take pause to get acquainted with Alain Raynaud’s website for the Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux, which quite loosely translated means “The Great Circle of Bordeaux.”

This carefully curated collective includes wineries within the Cercle Rive Droite, (droite means “right” in French) and the Cercle Rive Gauche (gauche means “left” in French), hence Right Bank and Left Bank producers. One or two NYC events per year host a fairly small crowd—a kind of insider’s club—so getting on board now is your challenge. On the social front, get acquainted with the wineries through the organization’s website, and follow ones that appeal to you on Facebook and Instagram for updates and event announcements. Finally, when shopping, look for the organization’s seal/logo on bottles, as each will have been panel tested and approved.

Now to the interview: Raynaud is a Bordeaux heavyweight champion—the former President of the Union des Grands Cru, he left in 2000 to focus on promoting the wines of his beloved region.

1. While those in the wine industry certainly know who you are, give us a rundown of your career in wine.

I was Born in Pomerol into a family involved in the wine business (château la Fleur de Gay). I graduated as a physician and assumed this position for 28 years. Even as a physician, since about 1964, I have always been in charge of our family winemaking practices under the advice of my father.  And eventually I wanted to run my own château.  My love for wine has been contagious enough to convince my wife Françoise to join me in his journey.

2. What inspired you to start the Cercle des Grands Vins de Bordeaux — what is the goal of these organizations? 

In 1994 I became the President of the Union des Grands Crus up to year 2000, but this very well-known association was missing an important part of the Right Bank in Bordeaux. This is why in 2002 I created the Cercle Rive Droite. As a matter of fact we were missing the participation of the Left Bank. This is why this year we decided to create the Cercle Rive Gauche that is now participating to a new Grand Cercle des Vins de Bordeaux. The main idea in this creation is to give the young wine connoisseur a large rank of wine expressing both high quality and reasonable prices.

3. You just had a big tasting of the 2013 en primeur wines – what are some of the initial thoughts of the vintage?

The wines we tasted are from the 2012 vintage and the growing season was especially wonderful throughout the month of August, with consistent temperatures, though there was unexpected difficult weather in September and these young wines are very interesting — it’s too early to tell what will become of them, however they are unique and hold great potential.

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    Mario Batali and Lidia Bastianich, the stars of the show, introduced each course and offered guest the opportunity to ask them questions throughout the evening.

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    The private dinner was held in Del Posto's beautiful downstairs Barbaresco Room.

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    Upon arrival guests were greeted with Champagne and passed hors d'œuvres.

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    Guests entered by descending down this elegant staircase to the private dining area on Monday night.

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    Lidia Bastianich greeted guests and helped serve hors d'œuvres during the beginning of the night.

  • table setting

    Beautiful table setting in Del Posto's private downstairs Barbaresco Room.

  • glasses and candles

    Glasses ready to be filled with delicious Italian wine!

  • lobster course

    The Lobster Course: Left is Lidia's Astice Quasi Caprese and on the right is Mari's Lobster Crudo with Ramps and Meyer Lemon.

  • peas course

    The Peas Course: On the left is Lidia's Risotto con Scaffata "Cacio e Pepe" and on the right is Mario's unique Mint and Pea Love Letters with Merguez sausage.

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    The Bolognese Course: Lidia's Fuzi Tradizionali al Ragu de Cortile (left) and Mario's "Classic Bolognese"

  • members

    Underground Eats member Margaret Walker joined two of her friends at the Masters at the Table dinner.

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    The Beef Course: Lidia's Brasato all a Veneziana, Tagliata all a Griglia con Patate e Bietole (left) and Mario's Braised Beef Cheek with Morels and Stinging Nettle Polenta (right).

  • dessert

    Dessert consisted of a Donut Course and included Mario's Bomboloni and Lidia's "Gnocchi di Susine" con Gelato di Bourbon e Prugne.

  • wine

    Del Posto's Wine Director Jeffrey Porter selected five exceptional wine pairings for Monday night's dinner.

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    Both star chefs seemed to be enjoying themselves Monday night as they chatted about everything from their favorite cooking ingredients to whether or not they ever order from Seamless.com.

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    Fans were able to introduce themselves and jump into photos with their favorite chefs.

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    Underground Eats' Harris Damashek with Lidia Bastianich (left) and a photo of the decadent 10-course menu served on Monday night.

  • kitchen staff

    At one point closer to the end of the evening the hosts introduced the talented kitchen staff at Del Posto and thanked them for doing such an amazing job.

Dining with the Masters: An Evening with Lidia and Mario

When you make a reservation at Del Posto you do so with an expectation of superb fine dining with outstanding service, amazing food, and delicious wine. On Monday night the Del Posto experience was elevated to new heights when approximately 200 diners enjoyed a multi-course dinner with wine pairings during a special evening hosted by none other than Mario Batali and Lidia Bastianich, two of the restaurants’ owners. It’s not everyday you get to dine among two of the biggest names in the food world.

As giddy, star-struck guests entered the beautiful Barbaresco Room at Del Posto, Lidia herself was already passing out some of her delicious hors d’oeuvres for everyone to nibble on with a welcoming glass of Champagne. From start to finish the evening was nothing short of Del Posto excellence. There is no wondering why the restaurant is up for a James Beard Award for Outstanding Service as every server was attentive and professional without the stuffiness one would expect from a four-star NY Times restaurant.

Even though Mario Batali seemed to have forgotten to dress up for the occasion wearing his trademark fleece vest, shorts, and pink button-up shirt with rolled up sleeves (we still love him!), he was definitely ready to act as gracious host as he and Lidia took the stage to welcome everyone and begin their introductions to the first course. The “dueling menu” consisted of five courses with each chef preparing their own interpretation based on a classic dish or specific ingredient; Lidia’s was always served on the left and Mario’s on the right. Between each course the chefs explained why and how they prepared their dish and allowed for guests to ask a few questions.

Later in the evening there was a longer Q&A session during which guests asked questions from “What are the three most important ingredients?” (Lidia’s answer: garlic, olive oil, and either parsley or basil) to “Have you ever ordered in using Seamless.com?” Neither chef even knew what this was. At one point Lidia declared her love for Korean food and Mario admitted he doesn’t care much for trendy molecular gastronomy techniques (since “Everything is molecular! Everything is made up of molecules. Why mess around with the textures?”

For those who have watched both chefs rise to stardom and have enjoyed all their restaurants and watch them on TV, it was truly an amazing opportunity to meet and speak with both Mario and Lidia. It’s rare that anyone can gain this much access to two of the biggest names in food. Even if Mario didn’t stick around to take photos with fans, he was happy to answer any and all questions and offer detailed responses.

While both chefs created great dishes it wouldn’t be a “dueling menu” without some fun competition. Although I definitely do not speak for everyone, below is a personal score card of each course and how the chefs compared: (see above photo gallery for images of each dish)

Lobster Course:

Lidia: Astice Quasi Caprese - Lobster with Burrata, Fresh Passion Fruit, Olive Oil, Asparagus, Radish, Cucumber, Carrot, Watercress, Chocolate Brioche and Bitter Chocolate

Mario: Lobster Crudo with Ramps and Meyer Lemon

Verdict: Mario. Simple and delicious.

Peas Course:

Lidia: Risotto con Scaffata “Cacio e Pepe” – Risotto with Pea served with Cheese (Peccorino) and Pepper

Mario: Mint and Pea Love Letters with Merguez Sausage

Verdict: Lidia. While Mario’s was surprising and inventive, Lidia’s perfectly cooked risotto won over the taste buds.

Bolognese Course:

Lidia: Fuzi Tradizionali al Ragu de Cortile - Traditional Fuzi Pasta made with Porcini Powder and Ragu of Chicken, Duck, Rabbit, and Guinea Hen.

Mario: Classic Bolognese.

Verdict: Mario.

Beef Course:

Lidia: Brasato alla Veneziana, Tagliata alla Griglia con Patate e Bietole – Flat Iron Steak with Sautéed Swiss Chard and Potatoes Topped with Wagyu Beef and Crispy Swiss Chard Stems.

Mario: Braised Beef Cheek with Morels and Stinging Nettle Polenta

Verdict: Even Mario admitted that it felt like Lidia cheated by throwing a beautiful piece of wagyu beef on top of her plate which solidified her “win” this round.

Donuts Course:

Lidia: “Gnocchi de Susine” con Gelato di Bourbon e Prugne

Mario: Bomboloni

Verdict: Lidia. Bourbon ice cream gave her extra points.

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    Chef Rob McCue, the man behind April 20th's Prohibition NYC event, loves the challenge of recreating history through food

UGE Interviews Chef Rob McCue, the Creative Culinary Master Behind Prohibition NYC, Dine Titanic

Last year Chefs Rob McCue, Adam Banks, and Roblé Ali (Roblé & Co.) wowed 100 New Yorkers with their extravagant Dine Titanic culinary event marking the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic. Now Chefs McCue and Banks are on to their next epic historical adventure.  On April 20th chefs Rob McCue and Adam Banks are taking 160 lucky diners to America’s prohibition years during an afternoon of libations and tastings in a secret speakeasy location. These guys are obviously pros at crafting unique, creative culinary experiences. In anticipation for Prohibition NYC we decided to catch up with Chef McCue and pick his brain about his love for recreating history, what we can expect to see at this speakeasy party,and what they have in store for future events.

This is the second dinner you’ve done where you are recreating a specific time in history.  Would you call yourself a history geek? Or do you just like the challenge recreating classics with modern twists?

For me, looking back in history through food tells such an amazing story. People forget the history of America, and how food was always there throughout. I love the research aspect of it. Looking through old menus and looking at what the chefs did back then, It’s like looking through the windows of time. This may sound corny, but as I get deep into a project I almost project my mind to the time period, and for me that’s the amazing part. History has always amazed me, history and food make it even more enjoyable. Once I compile all my notes and all my research, I get a huge piece of paper and weave together all the dishes from that era. I then spin it with a modern twist, keeping in mind not to leave any ingredient off from that is important to the time period. In doing research I’ve looked at menus from the 21 club, Delmonico’s, The Cotton Club, etc. for the Prohibition NYC event. These were the best of the best at the time and I have to show respect to the era. I think what me and Adam came up with is going to blow people away!

What kind of dishes can we expect to see at the Prohibition NYC event?

Ok, I guess it’s time for a teaser! And this is only for the Underground Eats community! Foods during the 1920’s were salty and fatty, and that was by design- it made people buy more drinks. Easy concept. Well, we played off that balance of salty and fatty and came up with a unique station that revelers on April 20th will get to experience. We call it “The Free Lunch Stand.” Before prohibition began, bars would entice the public and local town drunks to come in for a drink and receive a “Free Lunch.” The un-witty patron was fed saltine crackers and salty dry cured sausages,  prompting them to drink more.  We are going to play off that and have our own unique “Free Lunch Stand.” Keep in mind we have some really cool and unique twists for the 21st century prohibition reveler. This is just one of many takes we will offer our guests on April 2oth. 

People of course tend to focus more on the cocktail when they think of the prohibition era speakeasies, what made you decide to do a prohibition culinary event?  Were there any specific inspirations for this idea?

Most people think of prohibition times as very cocktail driven- underground speakeasies, Al Capone, and Illegal bootleggers, and not really food driven.  And that is true to a certain extent. What most people don’t realize is some of the best restaurants, some of which sill exist today, were coming into play, and FINE DINING had already arrived including places like the Waldorf Astoria, Delmonico’s, 21 Club, Cotton Club. And These restaurants catered to your every need. When Adam and I decided to do this event, we went back to the menus of that time. Foods were heavy and simple, but they were interesting and really piqued our interest. We were like, “WOW Tomato Juice is an appetizer!” I thought, that is so boring! And then it hit me, “Wouldn’t it be cool if I reversed spherified the tomato juice, worked some smoked crab into it, and finished it with pickled celery?” The best part about that is we just wrote tomato juice on the menu. That’s how we change things up, that dish is going to blow people away. Now think of six items, all with a really unique twist. That’s what motivates me to take on these old nostalgic menus. Making them relevant again. To me, that’s cool.

What historical dinner would you love to recreate next? 

We are always looking through history to find an interesting time period. Once we feel like there might be a story to tell through food, and we believe in the project, we begin our planning phase. I have always wanted to do a dinner that takes us back to the impoverished area in and around the Whitechapel district of London in 1888- kind of a “Jack the Ripper gastro pub pop-up.” I love the 1880’s in London and I dream of opening a REAL GASTRO PUB in Manhattan. So many restaurants call themselves a gastro pub, but they’re the furthest thing from it.

We were also recently talking about doing some underground foie gras dinners in San Francisco!

You seem to enjoy doing dinners and events where creativity and theatrics are key components (i.e. Dine Titanic, Prohibition, Argentine Experience, Feast of the Senses, etc…) do you think you would ever be happy being a chef at a restaurant everyday, cooking the same menu night after night? 

NOOOOOO! That’s why I don’t work in a restaurant. I have much respect for those talented chefs that rock the ranges every night, but for me, I need to stimulate my creative juices in other ways. That’s why I love doing events like Prohibition NYC. It allows me to tell a story through food and bring people back to a lost time. Each event is always different, that’s what keeps things fresh and on the cutting edge of what we do.

How long have you and Adam been a team? Do you compliment each other well?

Wow, I met Adam 4 Years ago, ironically we were both chef-testing for the same position. We were both impressed with each other, and we ended up cooking together ever since. Yeah, I would say Adam and I side by side are like complete opposites! We are completely different chefs and have completely different personalities. Adam is more the calm cool collective chef and I’m more of the voicetress hotheaded chef.  When Adam and Myself take on these dinners we usually have varied roles. I handle the theme and theatrics and Adam concentrates on refining my crazy-hair-brained menu ideas. He kind of brings me back down to earth. That’s why we work so well together. It’s all about the food in the end. We both care so much about the finished product, and that we are topping ourselves each time we put on one of these events. Plus he has a lovely beard, and I don’t look good in facial hair, there I said it!

If you could throw any dinner party you wanted- what would be the theme and what might be some examples on the menu?

I’m going to throw a Game of Thrones dinner, to coincide with the finale on HBO. The setting is going to be an old gothic Church in Manhattan. We are going to have huge pigs on the table filled with decadent fruits. It ties into a dinner of medieval times that I’m infatuated with. Stay tuned for this dinner; it’s going to be an amazing experience.

If you are intrigued and interested in attending April 20th’s speakeasy party we suggest you move with haste and purchase your tickets on www.undergroundeats.com as there is limited space and spots are filling up quickly!

  • Mad-Men-Season-6-Teaser-Sideburns

    Mad Men Season 6 returns Sunday April 7th on AMC

Kitchen and Bar Prep for Mad Men Season 6

Finally! Mad Men is back Sunday night with its two-hour Season 6 premiere. Luckily, we didn’t’ have to wait a full 17 months this time around in between seasons, but it still feels like it’s been far too long since we last saw the men at Sterling Cooper Draper (Harris? Campbell?) tossing back scotch and vodka while still killing it in the ad biz.

For those who may be looking to celebrate this momentous occasion with a cocktail in hand and some food to nibble on, here are some of the best Mad Men-inspired recipe sites we’ve found that will ensure you enjoy Sunday night’s episode (even if you don’t approve of how the plot unfolds this year…)

AMC’s Mad Men Cocktail Guide

The Unofficial Mad Men Cookbook

CHOW’s Mad Men Recipes

Epicurious Mad Men Menu

Gothamist’s Season 6 Spoiler Foods

Food Republic Shrimp Cocktail Recipe

Retro Menu Inspired by Mad Menu

We’ve Been Busy…

Yes, we have been quite busy over here at the Underground Eats HQ in DUMBO. Since launching the site just over a year ago we’ve produced or promoted over 250 culinary events! We’ve had the privilege of working with some amazing talent and creative individuals throughout the last year and we look forward to bringing you many more unique dining experiences. In case you’ve missed out on all the eating, drinking, laughing, and reveling over the past year, here is a look at what we’ve been up to.  We hope to see you at a UGE event soon!

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